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Every One Piece game reaches a point where the opponent attacks, you are at 2 Life, and you have both a Blocker on board and a Counter in hand. Most losses at this stage come from picking the wrong one, and the wrong one is usually the Counter, because it feels safer.
The default: block with a Blocker that survives the attack. It costs nothing, it stays on board, and it keeps your hand for the attack you cannot block.
The rule
- If a Blocker survives the hit, block. A Blocker with power equal to or above the attacker rests, takes nothing, and un-rests next turn. Free defense.
- If no Blocker survives, count the gap. Counter only when one card closes it. Two cards for one attack is a losing trade at 2 Life, because the next attack is coming.
- If neither works, take the Life. At 2 Life a single hit is survivable. Spending two Counters to avoid it leaves you with nothing for the hit that is not.
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The two exceptions
- Double Attack and Banish. A Double Attack at 2 Life is lethal on its own; block it with anything, even a Blocker that dies. Banish removes the Life card without giving you the draw, so a chump block is cheap by comparison.
- The Blocker is your win condition. If the Blocker is also your best attacker, resting it to block hands the tempo back. Counter instead and keep it standing.
A Blocker that survives is free. A Counter is a card. At 2 Life, cards are Life.
MugiPocket's Expert bot applies exactly this logic when it defends: efficient Counter first when one card closes the gap, Blocker for big attacks from 4 or 5 Life, always block Banish. Practising against it is the fastest way to make the decision automatic.
Card prices on each page as of 20 September 2026.